I think Rick did a little too much, trick or treating, last night, he wanted only soda crackers for breakfast.
We headed out to the Great Wicimoco River. Part way there we ran into dense fog. Jandy, who was ahead of us called to warn us and also offered to come back and guide us in if we didn't have radar. We did have the radar and Fugawi on. The Suvies snuggled up close and we traveled through the fog fairly comfortably.
We arrived in Wicimoco River and received another call from Jandy to say they were anchored up Cockrell Creek in the commercial fishing town of Reedville. We joined them. If you were not a fish eater when you got there, you would remain so forever. The smell was terrible. Being tough, we ignored the odor and joined Jandy for cocktails.
The weather today was dense fog patches almost everywhere on the Chesapeake. Beginning tomorrow and for almost a week the winds were to pick up to 25 kts from the north and waves were to build to 5 feet until late next week.
We decided to make a run for it and get off the Bay. We headed out early for Hampton Roads and had nearly perfect weather most of the way. The wind was on our nose a good portion of the trip, by early afternoon we were able to put up the head sail and managed 6.5 + kts right to our destination. We didn't encounter any of the fog along the way but it appeared to be on the horizon a few times. We arrived just at sunset with the sun in our eyes so it was Fugawi to the rescue again.
We anchored in Hampton River just beside the University grounds.
With bad weather still being forecast, and sitting in an exposed anchorage, we decided to cross to Norfolk and get into the Dismal Swamp before the weather closed in.
Hurricane Michelle is just south of Cuba and no one is quite sure of the direction she will head.
We motored through the busy harbour of Norfolk and Portsmouth, dodging fishing boats, container ships, tug boats and naval vessels.
Portsmouth and Norfolk were impressive. Naval ships of all sizes, shapes and condition were tied up for miles, both in the naval yards and in private dry docks.
We arrived at the turn for the Dismal Swamp around noon. The weather is getting warmer. We made the turn and started in. The Suvies called to say that the bottom of the sign stated that the canal was closed. We hadn't read the whole sign. We were to busy laughing about there being a road sign in the middle of a river. We quickly made our way back out and headed for the Virginia Cut, the other way south.
We got as far as the Great Bridge in Chesapeake City before the weather started to shut down. All of the free wall space was taken but as we were looking for a spot, Doug and Alma from Vagabond were on shore calling us. We decided to stay at the marina for the night ($1 ft). The Vaggies invited us to join them for crab later. They had been here a week with transmission problems. Meanwhile, they met a local man ''Sarge'', whose real name is Guy Mitchell. Sarge is retired and likes to crab. He offered to teach all of us how to cook and eat crab properly. After pigging out on the sweetest steamed crab we have ever tasted, Al and I have decided to start crabbing.
First thing this morning, I used the marina laundry machines, washers 50 cents a load, dryers 25 cents. Rick used the fresh water to scrub the boat. I vacuumed since the batteries are completely charged after being plugged in all night. (We sure do get our moneys worth from the marinas now.)
One boat left from the free dock early this morning so the Suvies charged over there to hold at least one spot until another comes free.
Good thing he did, it appears that no one is moving until the winds settle down. There was an empty spot on the free wall on the other side of the bridge and we decided to move over to it.
While waiting for the bridge to open, everyone at the dock on this side of the bridge, moved their boats close together to make room for us. I didn't really think they could make enough space but they did. Really nice of them. It's much more protected on this side of the bridge and we're docked right behind Al and Tish.
In the midst of meeting everyone, we could hear our cell phone ringing. I was a little too slow getting to it but there was a message to call Darrin and Dominique. We did, and sure enough, we are now Grandparents. Liam James, 7 lbs, 6 oz, was born yesterday. He is well and his Mom and Dad are doing well.
After lunch we headed out to do some grocery shopping and then over to the Suvies for dinner.
We wouldn't have known that the wind had been blowing all night except that
there were pine needles all over our deck in the morning.
We went out for breakfast $1.99 for 2 eggs, hash browns, bacon and toast.
We stopped in a bait store to ask about crabbing. Al and I tried putting some chicken on a string last night. Something ate the chicken but we didn't get a crab. The bait store sold me a crab trap. I should be able to catch thousands now.
Off to the library to send some web site pictures. Tish and I roamed some craft and dollar stores while Al and Rick waited patiently outside. Al picked up some new spark plugs for his outboard which is still not working.
Well so much for my crab trap. I had to shake a fish out of it. The chicken
has disappeared again but no crabs. Rick and I both worked on small jobs today.
Al decided it was today or never that his outboard was going to be fixed. There
are 5 sailboats on this dock so there were 4 men standing around Al giving
advice. In fact the women eventually joined in as well. Al had put the outboard
on land so he could pull it completely apart. In the end, it worked! Al who has
been without an outboard since before Atlantic City, now had power again. He had
to take it for a spin and cause a bit of wake.
There is no tide in Chesapeake City due to the locks. The books say that the wind can affect the water. It is unbelievable although we can't feel the wind because we are so protected by the trees, we can certainly see what the books mean. The water level has dropped about 3 feet in two days. Now everyone is waiting for the winds to subside and the water to rise a bit before moving on.
We remained at the free wall and worked on small jobs. Visited the library, laundromat and grocery store. A new Radio Shack is opening on November 8. I was finally able to purchase a mouse with a USB connector.
The winds are calm at night urging us to move on but cold fronts are a daily occurrence.
Four boats, Kimberlee, Moody Goose, Suvarov and Wind-Borne, all went out together for Chinese food.
Al was determined to crab today. The trap I bought is not working. We got out the fishing lines and tied a chicken wing to the line. By late afternoon, with three rods in the water, there were a dozen crabs in the bucket. After a light meal of homemade stew we had the crabs. They were all gone within an hour. Al sure does like crab.
While at the farm fresh store, we started talking to one of the cashiers. She mentioned that her family enjoyed walking down to the canal and watching the boats pass through. We offered an invitation and by late afternoon she was there with her son and parents. Her husband is in the navy and could not make it. She brought all of us an American Flag pin made of safety pins and beads. These pins are so very popular but difficult to get now due to a shortage of safety pins (since September 11).
We were up at 5:30 preparing to leave but while listening to the weather forecast changed our mind again. There is a small craft warning downstream. The decision to move tomorrow was made over tea with the Suvies at 6:30 am.
That evening we were having happy hour on Wind-Borne with Suvarov and Moksha (Mike and Victoria), when Shadowfax crew arrived.
Frost! It was the first indication that it was time to move on.
We departed at 6:30am, went about a quarter mile and had to turn around due to thick fog on the channel. We circled for ½ hour. Finally, about 30 minutes after sunrise we were off. Eleven sailboats and four power boaters. We still had to bunch up and wait for the first bridge.
Just south of Coinjock there was a sailboat aground. He had already called Boat US for help.
We crossed Carrituck Sound which was only 10 feet of water but 20 feet in the channel.
We anchored SW of Buck Island in 8 feet of water along with a dozen other vessels. We tried a new method of anchoring mentioned by Roy of Kimberlee. (You tie a line to the anchor rode just before the snubber line and bring the line back to the winch to create a bridle. This stops the boat from dancing off the anchor. It helps a lot in gusty winds).
We headed out early to cross Albermarle Sound. The winds were east 15 to 20 kts. The waves were about 2 feet by the time we reached Alligator River. We were planning to anchor in Alligator River even though the guide books state that it is dangerous to your anchoring systems because to all of the snags. Well, there are only three different places to anchor, and as we passed each one, we said forget it. You might as well drop your anchor in the middle of the 14 foot wide channel.
So, unplanned, we continued through the Alligator and Pungo Canal arriving just before dark to anchor in the Pungo River. The holding was not great, we had to try a couple of times to get the anchor to set. It held well in strong winds.
The Suvies needed to stop in a town so we agreed to meet them in an anchorage up the Bay River later. We arrived at the spot and tried five different locations and 2 different anchors but couldn't get an anchor to set in the silt. We were running out of daylight and decided to head back down the river and pull into Bonner Bay. We contacted the Suvies and they agreed to meet us there. Just before turning into the Bay we saw the Suvies coming out of the canal, so they followed us in. Still very poor holding but we managed to get an ''ify'' set just before dark. There really was no protection from the wind in this anchorage so we decided to set the anchor alarm, sleep in our clothes, in the main salon and hope for the best. Only one alarm, at 4:30 am. The winds had shifted a bit so we swung.
I wanted to get to a decent anchorage today. We left at 8 am and headed for the South River, which is just off the Neuse River. The Neuse River can be a little rough at times. We had a NE wind 15 kts. and it was a little rolly but still a good sail.
We arrived in South River well before noon. It is a great river with tall stands of trees on both banks and nice bends that should provide great wind protection. Forget it. We anchored well down the river, close to shore, and still had 25 to 30 kt gusts hitting us. Well, we're here for the night, which will probably be another anchor watch night. Tomorrow we plan to head for Beaufort, North Carolina.
Today was another exciting day. We left South River and headed back out to the Neuse. The winds were northerly, 15 kts plus. The waves were over 3 feet and very choppy. The snatch block came open and our fairlead was a little out of control for a few minutes. The Garmin (GPS) lost its signal very near a shoal. We had a few tense minutes in the cockpit but everything settled down as we entered the channel to Adams Creek on a nice downwind sail.
As we neared Beaufort, the channel split and became a little confusing (probably because all of our Beaufort charts were outdated and wrong, even the electronic ones). We had very little water and it was a falling tide. The Suvies, offered to lead the way just in case we were to run out of water. They usually have an easier time getting off if they run aground.
It didn’t take them long and they did run aground. Tisha very nicely waved us off. We stood by while Al used his dinghy and pulled Suvarov back to deeper water (6 feet). We were about to continue on but the markers and chart were so out of wack, we called to a Sea Tow boat that was zooming by. I asked if he would guide us to deeper water because we were a little confused by the markers (3 channels converging).
He told us to follow him, which we did, right onto a sandbank. Immediately there was a voice calling us on the radio. It was Boat U.S. who saw what happened and wanted to know if we were a member and if we needed help. We answered yes to both. He arrived in less than 5 minutes and gently pulled us off.
He asked where we were headed and when we mentioned the anchorage, he advised against it. Good thing, the Suvies ran aground again heading in to anchor. We never would have made it.
We docked in Town Creek Marina (boat U.S. discount). It was a nice marina with a courtesy car, nice restaurant etc. but very little maneuvering room to get into the slip they assigned us. Fixed docks and high tides made getting on and off the boat difficult even with the portable steps they provided. While we were getting settled, The Boat U.S. guy had a call to pull two more boats off the sand bars.
I finished the laundry by 7 am. We booked the courtesy car for 1100 to 1:30. It was great, we got propane, went to the post office, did our grocery shopping and we were back at the marina within the hour and a half.
Shadowfax came by, they had been in Beaufort for 2 days. Keith wanted me to cut his hair. I was a little nervous about cutting someone’s hair other than Rick’s. Keith didn’t care, he was desperate. I instead offered to supervise Allison if she was willing to try. She did an okay job, but it didn’t really matter because Keith always wears a hat.
Rick serviced the batteries and washed the boat. We waved goodbye to Shadowfax then had a steak dinner with the Suvies. We cheated a little by picking up french fries and caesar salad from the marina restaurant.
Today, has been picture perfect. We left our very confined dock at 6:45 this morning with absolutely no problem (no wind). We headed back out the same channel that both the Suvies and we ran aground. This time we ignored all charts and used our Mid Atlantic Waterway Guide. Perfect, absolutely no problem, in fact it was so easy once we had the up to date information on the bouys. We couldn't believe the problems they had caused the other day.
We headed south, the weather was warm and sunny (76 degrees). We're starting
to see a lot of palm trees. The Pelicans are becoming much more numerous. The
water has acquired a tropical hue. Dolphins were playing all around us. Now this
probably sounds like everything required for a perfect day but there's more. Can
you imagine 1 trawler and 2 sail boats arriving at 17 minutes after the hour, at
a bridge (Onslow Beach Bridge, North Carolina), that opens on the half hour and
the Bridge Tender say's ''Bring it on up here Captain, I'm going to open the
bridge early for you. If that's not enough, we come to a sharp turn in the ICW
and around the corner we see a large barge and tug. Rick decides to slow down
and let them maneuver the corner before we approach any closer. All of a sudden
on channel 13 we hear the tug calling the sailboat approaching our marker.
That's us! The tug is the US Coast Guard, and they tell us that they are not
turning the corner, they are going to pull up to the marker and fix the light.
They then ask if we are familiar with this area. When we tell him not at all, he
continues...''Well Capt. there's not much water on your starboard side. Just
give us a minute to come to a stop at this bouy and then you come up real close
to us and you’ll have lots of water''. We thank him and he continues to guide us
around the corner safely. When I told him that we thought this was amazing
service, his reply was ''We aim to please''.
Believe it or not there is still more. We pull into an anchorage for the night at 2pm and we are the 2nd boat there. We have our choice of spots. Many boats arrive later and believe it or not, our first mosquitoes. (Mosquitoes are only found in warm weather.) The winds are forecast to build overnight. We've put down two anchors so we are hoping that our perfect day will continue through a perfect night.
We anchored in Wrightsville Beach and then Dutchmans Creek. Wrightsville looked like it might have been a nice place to visit but a cold front went through and the temperature said ''keep moving south'', so we did.
We arrived in Barefoot Landing, Myrtle Beach South Carolina on the Thursday Nov 22nd. (American Thanksgiving). We tied up to a free wall and the Suvies rafted to us. This is one of the nicest places we have found. The free wall is within the very touristy Barefoot Landing Mall. Almost all of the stores were closed so we decided we had to stay another day.
We packed a shore lunch (picnic) with cheese, pate and wine and then headed
out to breakfast at the Cracker Barrel Restaurant. We walked along the beach and
gathered shells for Al's new collection. We never really walked off breakfast so
lunch was eventually cancelled and returned to the fridge.
I found a couple of must buy gifts in the mall. Before going back to the boat again, I strolled over to the Alabama Theatre. The annual performance of ''Christmas in Dixie'' was playing and we were able to get tickets for the matinee. A matinee is appropriate for us because we, as well as all other sailors seem to fall asleep about 7:30 each night and need time for happy hour. The show was well worth seeing and put us all in a Christmas mood. Christmas music is now playing on our boat.
After the matinee, we stopped into the Crab Shack for happy hour, (we didn't want to but Tish made us do it). It was a good happy hour and we were able to make it back to the boat by 6 pm. Not a bad day.
We'll head out early tomorrow although it might be a bad day to travel. I believe tomorrow is the Christmas boat parade on the ICW and Santa comes to town almost everywhere.
After leaving Myrtle Beach we anchored in some very small creeks. (Graham Creek, Wappoo Creek, Mosquito Creek). Each day as we traveled, we would see dolphins just about every time we passed an inlet. The temperature is now in the high 70’s to low 80’s and we’re back in shorts and plastering on the sun protector.
We are continually in awe over the unique design and size of the houses all along the ICW in both North and South Carolina. The docks for many of these mansions are so long that we saw some people using golf carts to get to the end of their dock. It also appears that the first structure to be built is the dock. The house seems to be constructed second.
Nov 27th was our last night with the Suvies for a while. We anchored that night in Mosquito Creek near where the shrimp boats dock and the B&B Seafood store is located. We originally headed there because Al needed fuel however we would anchor there again anytime. We were able to buy very large shrimp for $6 a lb. Al got 4 lbs. and I cooked them all. Between Al, Rick and I, (Tish doesn’t eat seafood, but did try one), we ate at least 3 lbs. They were the freshest and sweetest shrimp we had ever eaten.
The next day, was a late departure. There was fog for our normal departure time (7am), but we had already decided to leave at 9am. High tide was at 6:30 am, the tides are getting quite high (6 to 7 feet so far), and it’s almost a full moon. The last thing I want to do is to run aground during a high tide. It’s bad enough travelling on a falling tide but at least there is hope of floating off grounding during the same day if we avoid high tide.
The Suvies stopped in Beaufort S.C. to catch up on laundry and provisioning but we continued on to Skull Creek. This is our last night in South Carolina. Rick has booked a flight home from Jacksonville Florida and I would like to be at dock in Brunswick Georgia before he leaves. When Rick returns, we’ll all get together again.
