Journal - January 2007

January 1, 2007, Sint Maarten

Happy New Year

Needless to say, we were very slow in getting up today. In fact, breakfast was served in stages. Rick prepared the coffee as usual. We had a cup and then went back to bed. About half an hour later, I got up and handed everyone a banana (in bed). Another half hour and everyone got some yogurt but still in bed. Finally, around 10AM I toasted some sandwiches for everyone. Rick did the dishes and then we all settled down to read (and sleep some more).

It rained off and on during the day so it was a good day to relax, recover and do nothing. We have a busy day planned for tomorrow.

January 2, 2007, Sint Maarten

We were up and ashore before 8AM standing at our designated spot to be picked up for the Golden Eagle tour around the island. The bus arrived on time and took us along with a few others to Bobbies Marina in Philipsburg.

After checking in we were shown to the Golden Eagle III which was a huge catamaran that normally holds 100 people but today there were only 38 of us.

As soon as we were aboard they began by serving mimosa's, rum punch and soft drinks.

Tintemarre mudThe captain informed everyone that the first leg of the trip up the eastern side of the island would be a little rough (25 knots of wind and 10 foot seas today) but it would become more comfortable after that. We found the first leg very comfortable in this boat. It certainly would not have been in Wind-Borne III. There were only a couple of people that appeared a little green in colour.

Our first stop was the small island of Tintamarre. The captain anchored very close to shore and we all swam in to the nice sandy beach. Tintamarre is known for it's beaches and natural mud baths. One of the crew prepared the mud for us. Many people assured me after the mud bath that I looked at least 10 years younger. My skin certainly felt smooth. I would later learn that some of the mud and sand would stay with me under my suit for the rest of the day.

Lunch at Grande CaseWe left Tintamarre and travelled across the north end of the Island to Creole Rock. This was a great snorkelling location. There was no coral but there was a great selection of very friendly fish. Rick suggested that maybe the fish were used to being fed because they would come right up to us with no fear at all.

Creole Rock is just outside of the bay of Grand Case. This is where we re-anchored for lunch. We were offered a choice of chicken, Mahi Mahi or a vegetarian dish. Rick, Kelly and I all chose the Mahi Mahi, which was so fresh it must have been caught and cleaned that morning. We sat at a table that was set for ten people, as it's a great way to meet new people. Unbelievable! As people joined us and we started talking, we learned that absolutely every one (seven of us) at the table was Canadian.

Refreshment timeAfter lunch, there were beach chairs available to lounge on or we could again go for a swim. Eventually it was time to get back onboard to continue or trip around the island.

We stopped again for a swim and drift where the crew served us drinks as we drifted around on a noodle. No one wanted to get back on board after this. Everyone was enjoying it so much that they wanted it to last even longer. The poor crew member that announced that it was time to leave was booed. His response was that he didn't like that song at all we were to sing another.

We stopped at Maho Beach for a few minutes while a 747 approached the airfield. The captain assured everyone that the plane would clear the mast which it did but not by much.

The rest of the trip back to Philipsburg was spent drinking champagne and watching the crazy crew teach many of the guests some wild dance movements.

It had been a wonderful day with absolutely no rain. We returned to the boat and wouldn't you know it, one hour on board and there was a downpour.

January 3, 2007, Sint Maarten

Kelly & CarolyToday we lazed over breakfast and slowly got ready to leave. We arrived at Jimbo's just in time for lunch. Jimbo's is a restaurant with a swim up bar (fresh water) of which we took full advantage. Kelly and I sat on a bar stool in the water and shared a "Mega-Rita". Mega- Rita's are made with fresh mango, passion fruit or pineapple etc. mixed with rum. They are served in a beautifully decorated 32 ounce fish bowl. Rick didn't want to come into the pool so he sat at a table next to the bar and kept us company. Elizabeth our server (from Trinidad) was wonderful. Eventually Kelly and I emerged from the pool and joined Rick for a late lunch.

Lunch at Jimbo'sWe hadn't realized it was so late. When we arrived back at the boat we only had time for a quick shower and change and it was time to leave for the yacht club. Although today was only Wednesday we agreed to meet Paul and Lynn there to watch some of the mega yachts returning from their New Years partying at St. Barts. Most of the yachts had guests on board so the crews were very subdued and boring as they motored past us. We noticed that the last mega to enter had a party underway on the upper deck. One of the young men sat upon the rail as the others onboard took his picture with the hills and lagoon in the background. We all cheered and burst out laughing when we realized that as he sat there with his butt hanging over the rail, he was slowly pulling the back of his shorts down without the other guests onboard noticing. He was very discreetly mooning us!!

A mega yacht coming through the bridgeWhen we left the yacht club Kelly, Rick and I boarded a bus and went into Maho to the Casino Royal. We wanted to see the show. A street show is performed outside the casino before the real show begins in the theatre. I wrongly thought the street show began at 7:30PM. While there, we learned that it begins at 9PM and the indoor show at 9:30PM. We sat and had a snack at the café next door to the casino where we met André our server. We had a nice time talking with him but then decided that we were all too tired to hang in there for the show. It was 8:30PM when we hopped another bus back to the yacht club where we had left the dinghy.

January 4, 2007, Sint Maarten

It is Kelly's last full day in Sint Maarten. We had a big breakfast and then got ready to spend the day on Mullet Beach. Of all the beaches we have seen, this is our favourite. Paul (Kiana) was going to be busy but Lynn wanted to join us.

We left about 10AM and took the bus to Mullet Bay. The bus driver had been talking on his cell phone during the trip but when we went to get off the bus, he took off his glasses and looked at us. He remembered us. It was André our server from last night. He drives bus in the daytime.

There were all ready a lot of people at the beach but we found four chairs under the large umbrellas that seemed perfect to us.

Kelly, Lynn and I headed straight for the water. Oh my goodness!! What a change there was in the water from last week. Huge swells were coming in from the sea. They weren't the surfing type of swells they were just large and strong, sweeping right up onto the beach to the first row of chairs.

Sailboat needs help coming through the bridgeWe went out in the water far enough so that we wouldn't get caught in the undertow of the outgoing wave. The water was still crystal clear so we had a lot of fun rising up and down with the mountains of water as they passed under us. One elderly lady got toppled while trying to get out of the water but before she was dragged back by the undertow a few strong men rushed to her rescue.

It was 3:30PM when we left the beach and Lynn suggested we go straight to the yacht club for the bridge opening. Rick got off the bus where we had left the dinghy (Shrimpy's) and we continued on the bus. The traffic was heavy so the timing was perfect. He arrived at the yacht club about the same time as us.

The Maltese Falcon, an 88-meter sailing vessel with three masts was anchored just outside the bridge. I was anxious to see if it would come into the lagoon. It didn't, evidently because the water isn't deep enough for it's keel inside the lagoon. The Maltese Falcon is one of the three largest privately owned yachts in the world. From a distance, it looks like a square-rigger but it definitely is not. Each mast is rotating and constructed of carbon fibre. The ship is 1,404 tons.

As we watched the other little mega yachts come through the bridge we quickly noticed our mooning mega yacht returning again. There was nothing discreet about the mooning today. The same guest gave us all a full moon and then a young women followed suit and quickly gave us a second moon.

We were watching a mega named Hooter's Patrol come through the bridge. Many very pretty women onboard were waving and at the last moment, a big man came out onto deck and raised his t-shirt to flash us. Everyone had a chuckle. The antics on these boats are increasing.

We left the yacht club and went to Peg Leg's Pub for dinner with Lynn and Paul and then made it home without getting rained on.

January 5, 2007, Sint Maarten

This was Kelly's last day and although she was given the option of doing anything she wanted. She didn't know what she wanted to do so Rick got to choose. He wanted to stroll around the French side of the island and have lunch there. That's exactly what we did.

We were at the airport in plenty of time for Kelly to check in. We left her a little earlier than we normally would in order to make it back across to the yacht club before the bridge opening.

When we left her, we promised to wave to her from the yacht club. It was well past her departure time when we finally saw her American Airline flight lift off over our heads. Everyone had been primed to wave so she had a great send off.

Next, we went to Toppers for dinner with Kiana and Latest Caper who just returned from St. Barts. This was our last night out with Latest Caper who will leave to head south Sunday night.

January 6, 2007, Sint Maarten

I tidied the boat and took down the Christmas decorations in the morning while Rick transferred fuel into the dinghy tank and generator so that he could purchase more fuel in the afternoon.

I went ashore with the laptop and started to catch up on the emails I had been neglecting over the holidays.

In the evening, we were treated to a Joe Bonamassa (sorry I don't know who he is) concert. It was at Port de Plaisance, which is on the other side of the lagoon from us. We were downwind and just far enough away to enjoy without it getting on our nerves. It sounded a little too heavy for our liking.

January 7, 2007, Sint Maarten

Today was almost a continuation of yesterday. Rick checked the batteries and added insulation to the refrigerator cooling pipes. I continued writing emails most of the day.

January 8, 2007, Sint Maarten to St. Martin

Finally, the winds had slackened and we awoke to a nice millpond effect in the lagoon. It was a good day to whiz around in the dinghy and accomplish the many things we had to do.

We had to be at Island Water World to drop off our empty propane tank before 9AM. Propane tanks are not allowed on buses or in taxis here, so both Budget Marine and Island Water World (IWW) provide a filling-transportation service. In before 9AM and back before 5PM. The total price was $9US.

When we left IWW we dinghied to the rigging shop to see if our part had arrived. They think it might have arrived but were unable to find it. They will call. Next stop was Budget Marine to see if my great and powerful WiFi Antenna had arrived. Not yet, but soon. While there, Rick started the process to order his Christmas present, a new electric windlass. The one he wants might be in the shipment that just arrived, they'll check and call us. Meanwhile before leaving he picked up a few other items we needed.

Finished with chandleries for the morning, we whizzed (I'm enjoying whizzing across the flat seas rather than bouncing and arriving soaked) across the bay to the Simpson Bay Marina where we went into the Mega Yacht Provisioning office. We had a wonderful time talking to the provisioners. They have a steam cleaner available for rent, the first one we have ever seen since leaving Florida. I had planned to clean all of my cushions before Kelly arrived but couldn't and wouldn't dare put them outside to dry in the strong winds. Every day boats were reporting lost cockpit cushions that had flown away. After scrubbing and soaking them normally we use our little shop vac and get as much soap and water out of them as possible, rinsing multiple times and using every last drop of water in the tank then put them in the sun on deck to dry. We will instead, while the winds are light, try a similar process using the steam cleaner and much less water.

We made a quick stop at a café for an espresso for me and a hot chocolate for Rick sharing a fresh baked brownie.

We climbed into the dinghy again and went to customs and immigration to check out. The customs lady was hoping we were headed to St. Barts and would take her with us. Not yet, we were just moving to the French side of the island. The move is a tongue in cheek move because we are anchored right on the invisible border of the Dutch and French side of the island. We can see the monument on the hill off our bow. When the wind bows from the southeast, we're on the French side, when it blows from the northeast, we're on the Dutch side. So truthfully, we are not physically moving the boat at all. The Dutch side was charging us about $10US to stay in the lagoon (which we certainly didn't mind at all). The French side however charges nothing so we thought that was also very reasonable. We are no longer in Sint Maarten we now are in St. Martin.

There were a few items I had to pick up so as I walked to the various stores, Rick moved the dinghy to Shrimpy's where we had agreed to meet. The last stop was the grocery store and then we returned to the boat.

Lunch and a little rest and then we were off again. This time we whizzed over to Marigot to the French immigration office and checked in on the French side. We had to pass a Patisserie on our way so stopped for a little snack.

Whizzing back to the Dutch side we stopped at Kiana to pick up some books that Lynn had left in the cockpit for us. Rick then dropped me off at our boat before he returned to IWW to pick up the propane tank. Since I wasn't with him, I don't know if he whizzed.

January 9, 2007, St. Martin

This must be the season of hose replacement. In the morning, we removed the existing intake hose for the water maker and pulled a new larger diameter hose in. It runs from under the galley sink to under the forward bunk next to the water maker. I thought it would be a difficult job but it wasn't bad at all. Since there is such a long run on the intake, Rick felt that if we changed it from a ½ inch hose to a ¾ inch hose it would increase water production. It did, we gained ½ gallon an hour more and the pump pressure is reduced. It's not much but every little bit counts.

In the afternoon, Rick hung a new big black ball we had purchased. This black ball according to international regulations must be visible on the bow of a vessel to indicate that a vessel is at anchor. This to me is the most idiotic regulation there is. If a boat is in an anchorage and not moving, I would probably be correct in assuming it is "at anchor". A few years ago however, a person lost control of a Sea Doo and crashed into a boat at anchor. There were serious injuries and damage. A smart lawyer found and used the black ball regulation and the captain of the boat at anchor was found guilty and held responsible for all costs because he didn't have a black ball displayed. In this anchorage there are high-speed Sea Doos continually racing around. Yesterday we had a water-skier cross our bow. There is a multitude of large dinghies with over 250 hp engines on the back of them, racing back and forth from the mega yachts. All this to say that with our black ball in place, each time we hear and engine go by, Rick comments that there is no way they would dare hit us now. We are safe!!

After the excitement of the black ball installation, we relaxed and read while the generator and watermaker were running.

January 10, 2007, St. Martin

On the net this morning, we learned that Steve and Ann (Receta) had arrived. We first met them in the Outer Harbour Marina and then in Grenada a few years back while they were on vacation. They have returned from Canada with their boat for a little more cruising.

After breakfast, I removed what upholstery covers on the settee cushions I could, to wash in the tub. All of the covers with buttons will be cleaned with the steam cleaner. One thing I've learned is that almost all marine upholstery can be washed and since there are normally no steam cleaners available, I will never have decorative buttons on our upholstery again. Next time, I want to be able to remove all covers. This is probably another item for the tips section.

At 9AM Rick went into the marina and picked up the steam cleaner. I spent the rest of the morning cleaning all of the remaining settee cushions. While I was in the cockpit working, Rick was in the dinghy scraping a few barnacles from the waterline and cleaning the snubber on the anchor line.

The steam cleaner did a great job and I was finished by lunchtime. Rick returned it to the Megayacht centre; we had lunch, then a siesta.

January 11, 2007, St. Martin

There has been too much work and not enough play this week so today includes some fun. After breakfast, I gathered laundry for Rick to deliver. He also went to visit Budget Marine and FKG Rigging about the items they were checking on for us.

He returned with good news and bad news. The good news is that my new WiFi antenna may be in within a couple of days. The bad news was that his little part for the furler hadn't been shipped but they will get it here in a couple of days. The really bad news is that the electric windlass that he wants is back ordered and will probably not be available before we leave here.

We picked up Lynn (Kiana) and headed for Buccaneers beach bar on Kim Sha Beach. We tied the dinghy to the dock this time, which was much easier than trying to beach it. The beach boy was waiting for us when we arrived to see which palapa umbrella we would prefer. Actually we chose a couple of umbrellas under a couple of palm trees so we could have a nice double cool lounge. There were a few hammocks that were available as well but we passed on them for the lounge chairs.

Nisha, our hostess from Jamaica came by to take our drink and lunch order. I really enjoyed the salad last time we were here and Rick said that the hamburger was great. Buccaneers was voted as having the best burgers in the Caribbean in the "All at Sea Magazine". So, this time we came for the shade and the food and the view. Nisha's T-Shirt was a cute reminder for us, "Tipping is not a city in China". Since she took good care of us all afternoon, her tip was well earned. She is 26 years old and has 4 children under the age of 9 back in Jamaica that she is supporting.

January 12, 2007, St. Martin

After breakfast, we removed the starter motor from the engine to give to the mechanic. He had promised to work on it and get it back to us as soon as possible.

Rick then dropped me off at Shrimpy's with the computer. I checked a few things on the internet while he went to the other side of the lagoon to the Napa store. The plan was that when he returned, we would pick up a few groceries and laundry before going back to the boat. The winds were so strong and we had too many bags of groceries to fit into the dinghy with us and the laundry, so we had to make another trip ashore. When we arrived at our boat, it was obvious that a boat that had been a good distance ahead of us earlier was dragging with no one onboard. This same boat dragged yesterday and we thought he had anchored far enough away that we didn't have to worry about it. Not so, we put the groceries and laptop onboard and then Rick went to the other boat (The Aeries) and deployed his second anchor. He didn't really think it would hold because it was a CQR with very little rode. The boat continued to get closer to Wind-Borne but we put our dinghy between the two boats as a fender. Finally, the boat came to a stop, right beside us. It appeared as if the two boats were rafted but with the dinghy there, at least they weren't touching. It was a few hours before the owners returned. They were very apologetic and asked if there was any damage. I told them that it was not a problem but judging from the dragging both yesterday and today, it appeared to me that their boat was trying to mate with ours. They laughed and said they hadn't been able to find a spot that wasn't full of grass and weed. I pointed out an area well behind us that I thought might have a sandy bottom. They took it. (I'm sure this incident happened only because the starter motor was out and we couldn't start the engine).

With that excitement over we both settled down for a siesta. Less than five minutes later, there was a dinghy at our stern calling us. In the dinghy was Joe (Esprit de Mar) and a friend who had contacted us and let us know that they were going to be in St. Martin this week. Joe and his wife Linda were introduced to our web site a few years ago when a friend met Rick's brother in Costa Rica. We invited them aboard but they were anxious to get their provisions (four cases of beer) onboard their own boat. They were going to try and make it to the yacht club in the evening but never did.

We had 20 minutes left to rest up for our Friday night on the town. Every minute helps at our age. Just as we were leaving in the dinghy, Paul was racing toward us, he was returning the starter motor. He and Lindsey (mechanic) said it was a very good starter and they just cleaned up and replaced the old grease. Rick thanked Paul and put it in the boat before we took off. As we raced for the yacht club, the bridge was already up. It was a while later when Lynn and Paul arrived.

Dinner this evening was at Pineapple Pete's a restaurant owned by a Canadian. There was a guitarist singing when we arrived even though we thought the entertainment wasn't to begin until much later in the evening. We had wonderful fish (grouper) and chips Rick had pasta and chicken. Since there was Poutine on the menu, I requested the chips be Poutine. The flavour was great but the cheese wasn't melted. It appears that they haven't perfected it yet.

It was after nine PM when we returned to the boat for the night.

January 13, 2007, St. Martin

It was just after 6:30AM and the coffee wasn't even ready when Rick told me to get out of bed as we had company. I knew that Lindsey, the mechanic was coming this morning but I sure didn't expect him this early. It wasn't Lindsey, it was the Dutch Coast Guard, Immigration and Customs. They were doing a random check of all boats in the anchorage. They wanted to see our papers and asked if we had any guns onboard. We had a fun conversation with them and I had to stop myself from laughing when they realized that we were checked in on the French side. The Coast Guard said, "Wow, you are right on the line. You could move from one side to the other depending upon which way the wind blows." I sure didn't tell him that that was almost exactly what I had written in my journal. We just said, "Yes, we are on the line."

When they left us, we watched as they visited all of the other boats some flying a French flag well on the Dutch side. Their conversations I'm sure were very interesting.

The rest of the day was overcast and rainy so after reinstalling the starter motor we just stayed on board, watched TV and read books.

January 14, 2007, St. Martin

There were quite a few squalls overnight and we didn't have the engine totally back together. Rick had left the alternator and fan belt off because Lindsey the mechanic wanted to install a little relay between the starter motor and the starter battery.

After not getting much sleep over night, I told Rick that I didn't want Lindsey's relay, our starter has always worked well, I just wanted the engine back together in working order. When the dinghy is in the davits and the motor is not together I get uncomfortable especially after just having a boat drag down on us the other day. We would be helplessly adrift (in the lagoon) if our anchor line was tripped.

Rick patiently put the engine back in working order while I watched and commented. It rained now and again during the day but not as bad as yesterday.

January 15, 2007, St. Martin

The winds weren't nearly as strong as they had been the night before and we both slept well. The forecast was for very strong winds today so it was a good day to be off the boat.

Rick and I took the bus into town where we picked up some new throw cushions and carpets for the boat. On our way back to Simpson Bay we stopped at Cost-U-Less where we also bought some CD's, and frozen fish for dinner.

January 16, 2007, St. Martin

The winds overnight had the boat heeled as though we were having a great sail. The howling noise and driving rain that came with each squall woke us multiple times during the night.

in the morning I put on a bathing suit and washed the bimini, and dodger. The bathing suit is because I end up as wet as the canvas by the time I'm finished. Rick meanwhile, returned to his favourite hobby of polishing stainless steel.

In the afternoon, we made up for the sleep we lost last night.

January 17, 2007, St. Martin

The canvas had a few extra rinse cycles overnight.

Rick dropped me off at Shrimpy's with my laptop. I updated the web site with St Martin pictures from December and January. While I was hard at work in Shrimpy's, Rick took our old injectors to Lindsey, the mechanic to have them serviced. Then he took a bus to a large Ace Hardware near town to pick up a few things he needed.

Meanwhile, as I was reading our email I received a notice that our boat was for sale!!!! Stop the press and stop the rumours!!! I would have laughed this off but this is the second email in as many days. This last one wasn't just an email it was a notice that went out to the world. This rumour started innocently enough because of the following coincidence.

There is another Bayfield 36 in the Caribbean named "Wind-Borne" NOT "Wind-Borne III". It is an American flagged vessel out of Florida that arrived south just in time to be in Grenada when Hurricane Ivan hit. The owners "Ric" (to make things really confusing) and Anne have since put their "Wind-Borne" up for sale in St Martin. We just happen to also be anchored in St. Martin at this time in case people need additional similarities to create more confusion.

So, if you are one of the people trying to make an offer on our boat..sorry but we are still for 'SAIL' not for 'SALE'.

Happy hour had to be delayed a little this afternoon. A boat was dragging, thankfully this time not onto us. I watched as about six dinghies converged on the boat. I'd like to know where all of those dinghies were when we needed help the other day. Anyway, there were too many dinghies to actually accomplish anything. Together, they just conversed and held the boat from dragging further.

January 18, 2007, St. Martin

We awoke with great plans for the day but the weather didn't want to cooperate. It settled down enough for us to go to Island Water World and Budget Marine between rain showers. We picked up some wax for the deck and I bought myself a pair of the new Crock thongs (flip fop shoes that are now the in thing with cruisers). On our way back to the boat, we stopped and had a visit wit Ric and Anne on the other Wind-Borne. They are leaving for Virgin Island tomorrow morning.

We were almost out of reading material so we also visited Shrimpy's where we picked up a half dozen paperbacks.

Lunch was onboard and we then settled in for an afternoon of rain and reading.

Lynn (Kiana) called late in the afternoon and asked for help on the computer. Rick took me over to their boat because the lagoon is very rough and I don't like handling the dinghy by myself when it is like that.

We returned to our own boat just in time for happy hour.

January 19, 2007, St. Martin

Today was the Classic Regatta in St. Martin and to quote the radio announcer, "The organizers should have planned and scheduled the regatta on a day with wind." Finally, all of the strong winds we have been having were gone. In its place, we had an all day drizzle that because of the lack of wind would not go away.

Being tough sailors, we could handle it. The race today was from Simpson Bay to Marigot. There was a street party planned for the evening in Marigot, we rested up all day so that we would be able to party all night. I'm not sure if it was the lack of boats that entered the race or the weather but the party was cancelled. Lynn and Paul called to suggest we spend the evening in a new restaurant "Fathoms". The appetizers at this restaurant were awesome but the entrées were a little disappointing. Next time we go there, we'll have a meal of appetizers.

January 20, 2007, St. Martin

Both Paul and Rick had boat projects they wanted to work on for most of the day, so Lynn and I took a bus into Philipsburg and shopped.

It was such a nice day. We roamed and browsed. Lynn tried on clothes to her hearts content. We had planned to be back around noon but we found that we were really just getting started by then. During lunch on the boardwalk, we watched the classic boats arrive in Philipsburg for the second leg of the race. Tomorrow, the race runs from Philipsburg back to Simpson Bay.

Finally, about 3PM we caught a bus and returned to Simpson Bay. I picked up a few groceries and we had a nice dinner onboard.

January 21, 2007, St. Martin

I did it again; it was almost 8AM when I awoke this morning. I think that this happens on Sunday mornings because there is no radio traffic on the VHF. There are no weather nets on the SSB and the fact that most cruisers who normally work have the day off, so there are no dinghies speeding by the boat early in the morning.

It was a beautiful day, Rick continued polishing the deck and I continued trying to catch up with emails. In the afternoon, Rick went ashore to get some gas for the dinghy and generator. When he returned, he suggested that we go to Topper's for happy hour and dinner.

It was NFL playoff time again so Topper provided free barbecued chicken wings during happy hour tonight and it was pasta-feast night. After dinner and eating too much food, we waddled out and made our way back to the boat on a lovely flat lagoon.

January 22, 2007, St. Martin

Well, not every day in paradise can be the perfect day and this was one of the days that make us wonder why we are doing this.

We had originally planned to go to the beach today and watch the surf from big northern swells that were forecast to roll in. However, we awoke to another overcast sky that would stay with us all day.

A change of plans. We would stay onboard and Rick would replace the head on one of the feed pumps to the watermaker. It was a job that seemed to go reasonably smoothly and he was finished in no time. Next, there has been a tiny leak on the Clarke Pump (very important part of the watermaker) that he has wanted to fix for a long time now and today seemed to be the perfect day.

It was after 4pm when he finished with the Clarke Pump. We had not stopped for lunch because there was absolutely no way to work in the galley. The whole boat was pulled apart and we were both starving.

Now was the big test!! The pump to which Rick had replaced the head would longer prime and the leak in the Clarke Pump now was much worse. To really make our day, the macerator pump that Rick worked on while I was out shopping the other day no longer works. So, we have to ration the water for a day or two until the watermaker is fixed and along with that, the head (toilet) is now on a need to use only basis.

January 23, 2007, St. Martin

I awoke to a gentle breeze, sunshine and Rick already at work. He had made the coffee and was already in the process of changing the macerator pump. By the time I got out of bed he had one job finished and was onto the next. I had called "Electec" a company that services water makers and they had the part we needed for the Clarke Pump. He asked that we come at 8AM to get it as that was when he would be in the shop. Rick splashed the dink and left just before 8AM with a promise that his breakfast would be ready when he returned.

After breakfast, he removed the pump, replaced the part that was causing the problem, removed a strainer, connected the system all back up and we were in business by 11AM. The feed pump problem resolved itself when the strainer was removed. It was en extra strainer and for some reason it was introducing air into the system.

It was proving to be a much more successful day than yesterday.

Lynn and Paul (Kiana) left the lagoon at the 11AM bridge opening. They are meeting a friend in St. Barts and will be back for the 5:30PM bridge opening this Friday. The instructions we received were that we should be there waving and yelling on Friday as they come through the bridge.

To top things off today, my super duper WiFi antenna arrived at Budget Marine. We rushed over there before lunch to pick it up and then stopped for Chinese food and did a little grocery shopping before returning to the boat.

Once everything was put away, I mounted the antenna and installed the software. I anxiously watched as all of the WiFi sites appeared on my screen. The problem was that none of them was a free site. Oh well, I paid for one day of WiFi just to test out the antenna and then I surfed to my hearts content and Skyped everyone who I thought might be home.

January 24, 2007, St. Martin

One day of WiFi actually equated to 24 hours so I was able to look at our email in HTML format. This was great because I received many electronic birthday cards today, which I wouldn't have been able to view if I had received the mail through the SSB as we have been doing. I hadn't realized that so many of our friends and family knew on what day I aged each year. It was nice to be remembered and I had fun viewing the crazy cards.

Since it was my birthday, Rick let me sleep late then made breakfast and then he even did the dishes. The day was mine to choose how we would spend it. I chose to go to Kim Sha beach, which is usually very quiet. There, we were to sit under a palapa umbrella, relax, read our books and have Nisha serve us drinks and lunch. Well, what a surprise when we arrived to find that bus loads of people from cruise ships were being ushered onto our nice quiet beach. Then we learned that it was Nisha's day off. We picked an umbrella and had the beach boy bring us two lounge chairs. Then as all of the other people arrived we started talking to our beach neighbours.

Wouldn't you know it; not only Canadians but actual Torontonians surrounded us. I learned that the ladies sitting near us not only went (when back home) to the same restaurants as us but even to the same hair salon. It is such a small world and there must be some sort of magnet that just causes Canadians to be drawn together when away from home.

We had a nice day at the beach but I didn't get to read one word of my book. Rick said that if I would stop saying hello to everyone and restrain myself from being the official 'beach greeter' I would have had time to read the whole book. It doesn't matter; we met some nice people and had a wonderful day on the beach.

Back at the boat, Rick continued with the pampering as he prepared and served dinner in the cockpit.

January 25, 2007, St. Martin

The weather has been very nice lately. We've had light winds and no rain for a while.

Today we had nothing planned. Rick wanted to continue polishing the deck and I was feeling very domestic. Before he started his polishing, he went ashore to the French bakery and picked up a nice warm baguette that I needed to make an Italian feast for dinner. I pulled out my "Grazie A Recipe of Memories" cookbook and made almost every recipe for which I had the ingredients.

As we were eating bruschetta in the cockpit, we watched the sky streaked with many different shades of red and pink as the sunset behind us.

January 26, 2007, St. Martin

It was another beautiful day in St. Martin. I chose to do absolutely nothing all day except read and relax. Rick wanted to stay onboard and continue polishing the deck.

In the afternoon, Guy and Nicole (Blue Tang) stopped by to let us know that they had moved from Marigot Bay to Simpson Bay. It was easy now for them to join us at the yacht club for happy hour.

We met at the club just before 4:30PM and their friends Michael and Louise (Mistress V) soon joined us. Lynn and Paul (Kiana) returned from St. Barts and came through the bridge each waving with both arms. We stood on the deck beside the bridge and cheered them as they entered the lagoon.

After happy hour, Guy, Nicole, Michael, Louise with Rick and I walked down the street to have dinner at Matilda's but when we arrived, the place was closed. Out of business, closed. It was an arm twist but we had no choice but to cross the street and go to our favourite, Topper's for dinner.

It was an excellent evening and hopefully we'll have a chance to spend more time together before we each take off in different directions.

January 27, 2007, St. Martin

Lynn (Kiana) called in the morning and asked for help in booking airline tickets online. Once our boat chores were done, I connected to the local WiFi. The service was really slow this day but Lynn and I figured that it would provide us with extra wine drinking time.

We spent the afternoon booking tickets and searching hotels for Paul. When Paul finished what he was doing, he came over and we all left the computer and started into sundowners. It was a nice impromptu evening.

January 28, 2007, St. Martin

I slept late again and when I awoke Rick made a nice Sunday morning breakfast. We went to the Saturday flea market at Shrimpy's. There wasn't much there so Rick didn't even hang around for the free beer at 11AM. Instead, we went over to Grand Ilet (a small island in the lagoon) which is normally deserted, to cut Rick's hair. Just after we got there, a couple of large dinghies pulled up with cases of beer and liqueur. Next came a couple more boats with chairs, tables a barbecue, generator and even a cash register. We could tell that this was going to be a serious party. I asked if there was a special occasion that they were celebrating and learned that although, Friday was Australia Day they were having the party today. Why not!

When we returned to the boat, I put the cockpit cushion covers to soak so I could have them cleaned for next week.

With nothing else that had to be done we relaxed for the afternoon.

January 29, 2007, St. Martin

We stayed onboard for most of the day. Rick went ashore in the afternoon to pick up a few items I needed to make appetizers for this evening.

Brad (Eclipse) had come by and invited us to their boat for sundowners this evening. Eclipse is a 53 foot Gulf Star sailboat that was dragging a week or so ago and Rick went to help along with a few other dinghies. Brad was inviting all of those who had come to their rescue for a little party. Along with ourselves, Nutcracker, Tranquility and Mystery were invited.

While at the party, we learned that the reason his anchor wasn't set very well that day, is/was that they dropped it in a hurry and rushed Sylvie to the hospital. She had to have an emergency appendectomy. She has since recovered and was the perfect hostess.

January 30, 2007, St. Martin

Company is coming this week so in the morning I cleaned inside the boat while Rick first took the laundry ashore and then continued polishing the decks.

During the afternoon, we both relaxed.

January 31, 2007, St. Martin

We are still in company preparation mode. Today was shopping day. We began on the French side where we picked up some wine along with a lot of cheese and pâté. We'll take Carol (our incoming guest) to the wine store with us when she arrives. The store is very French and fun to visit.

Next we dinghied back to the Dutch side, put our perishables away, went ashore again and then rode the bus toward Philipsburg so we could shop at the Grand Marche. It is a huge store but we only wanted to buy things that we hadn't noticed at the Gourmet Marche grocery store near the boat because it is too far to lug everything.

After the Grand Marche we made a very quick stop at Cost-U-Less. There I picked up some nice large shrimp and slipper lobsters.

When we returned to Shrimpy's where we had left the dinghy, I picked up the clean laundry and helped Rick into the dinghy with everything to go to the boat.

While he was loading the shopping into the boat, I was at the Gourmet Marche where we picked up all of the fresh produce and all of the heavy goods.

The trick, when we returned to the boat with everything was to somehow find enough room in the fridge for it all.